San Clemente Palace Kempinski | Venice, Italy

Luxury can be defined as “a state of great comfort or elegance.” In the hotel world, there are hundreds of examples of properties world-wide that strive for that very distinction, through levels of service and by amenities provided, and they are graded against an ever-growing list of qualifications and metrics. Ever so often, though, the discerning traveler will come across a hotel that possesses qualities that can’t be gauged by metrics alone – a place that leaves an intangible sense of comfort, long after the keys are dropped and the bill is settled.

This entry into the Humble Pineapple Club will detail my stay at the stunning San Clemente Palace Kempinski, located off Venice proper, right on its own little private island. Let me go ahead and say it: this hotel is just incredible.

I entered Venice for my very first time, duffel digging in shoulder, itinerary in hand, staring at the little red booth that sold tickets for the local water buses, and a line 20 people deep. Let this be a warning to all – even coming from the madness of NYC Public Transportation, the water taxi system in Venice can come off a little convoluted. But don’t let that deter you. Worst case scenario: you get on a boat going the wrong direction, which may mean you have to see a little more of Venice… sounds horrible, doesn’t it?

Anyway, after finding my bus, locating the stop, and eventually paying for my first and only 9-euro coffee (American style) at an adorable little café on Piazza San Marco, I really began to consider what I was getting myself into. Here is my dream city, Venezia itself, in thought, laid out before me: streets and alleys and cafes and culture¸ and instead of enjoying the city, I was going out to a little rock in the sea, away from it all.

Little did I know, dear reader, just what this rock had in store for me.

I found the hotel taxi, a handsome little wooden-bodied speed boat piloted by some helpful gentlemen in fresh uniforms. I was ushered below deck with the other guests, and we soon set off on the 15-minute ride to San Clemente Island. We passed by churches and homes and other hotels, boats streaming up and down the Grand Canal like taxis in Manhattan, eventually making into a little more open water, where I could better survey the area. Venice is expansive. Even though the historic little city is rather small itself, the surrounding land and other islands make the whole thing a rather sprawling mess of water-locked beauty.

It was around this time, while sitting and considering whether Marco Polo would approve of my modern travels (and lack of silks and furs), that we reached our destination. And it was around this time that I reanalyzed my initial hesitation, replacing it with sheer and total delight.

The San Clemente Palace operates out of a series of structures with long and varied history. First providing a site for a 15th-century monastery (a theme in Italy), the island and the structures served as gathering places, where it became known as the "Gateway to Venice," where the Doge himself would commonly host and entertain guests. Aside from all this, the property even served as a hospital in the 1990s.

Most recently it was the St Regis Venice , up until March of this year, when the Geneva-based Kempinski took over management. Offering 190 rooms and suites, the structure is quite aptly called the Palace. The island has its own historic chapel (another theme in Italy), many well-kept walking paths providing stunning views of the Venetian horizon, 3 restaurants, a lovely bar, a swimming pool, and, oh yeah, did I mention that it is on its own private island?

The property, to put it simply, it gorgeous. Walking up the path from the dock to the front doors, you’re greeted with the beautiful main building, with an automatic revolving front door that allows you passage into the incredibly elegant lobby.

I must say: their service is on point. Aside from the incredibly cheerful front desk, concierge, and bellmen, the property also has several “Ladies in Red," acting as Guest Ambassadors. These ladies will readily assist you with information about the property, or provide you directions to your room, where they will happily explain all the necessary amenities and features. Every single representative I encountered at the San Clemente, whether front or back of house, was incredibly professional and knowledgeable – something I find a lot of properties miss the mark on these days.

Another amazing feature are the buildings themselves. As someone who is particularly fond of old, historic places, simply walking around the wide, tastefully appointed hallways, or descending the Grand Staircase to the lobby brought a genuine smile to my face. The restaurants are elegant and well-manned, and all the public areas are constantly monitored. The lobby itself is multi-chambered, providing several reading rooms, a useful business center, and lots of plush, comfortable seating, whether for sipping a coffee or just trying to catch up on emails. The bar is also comfortable, mirrored and well-stocked. The staff was even kind enough to satisfy my craving for a simple, delicious American cheeseburger.

The grounds are worth walking, too. The lawns are well-manicured, and the trees provide ample shade along the paths. There are secret seating alcoves scattered all around the little island tempting anyone to rest a moment and admire any number of excellent views. Benches under the trees and along the walkways lend to the picturesque nature of this luxurious island, and the general hush that hangs over the area makes for true relaxation. One may wish to not simply walk along the paths: indeed, a place like San Clemente invites the guest to practice, and perfect, the stroll.

I found myself wandering the halls several times that day, including that night when I couldn’t get to sleep. I was honestly swept away by the whole place. The property is the epitome of pristine. There were never any housekeeping carts in the way, never any stray bell carts left behind, no scuffs on the walls from bumped luggage, no trash hidden under the chairs. The floors were clean, but never smelled of cleaning materials: they just seemed to gleam, and intended on staying that way forever.

Likewise, the front desk never appeared hurried. The management team roaming the grounds always had time for even the simplest question. Indeed, the entire staff gave off a genuine feeling that they really did care about where they worked – a respect for the history mixed with a sense of happiness and job satisfaction, which was easily transferred to each and every guest.

Needless to say, I was not happy to leave that island, be sure of that. I spent a few precious moments before the shuttle back to the city departed just sitting on a bench, being totally lost in my surroundings – and totally content the entire time I was. And this, I think, is a measure of luxury that cannot be graded by the likes of a Forbes Auditor. Some properties will take your breath away, yes. Some properties can build beauty and manufacture style – and there’s nothing wrong with that. But a place like the San Clemente Palace possesses something more – almost an ingrained, intrinsic notion of self: a noble bastion of elegance, set to a backdrop of Italian beauty.